Postcards from Turkey

We love that Istanbul just is Istanbul, unapologetically so. Having inspired and hosted travellers and traders since time immemorial, it is no stranger to influence but always feels culturally self-assured. It does not bend the knee in the same way homogenisation seems to envelop other places in the world. There is a cultural velocity to the place and the people that seems to sustain an unchanging rhythm—but we, too, are just passing through. We can only see and experience that which we do, or maybe even want to, for surely our desire for an authentic experience shapes our gaze.

There are countless great places to stay in Istanbul, but we always choose the Bank Hotel in the Karaköy district, adjacent to the Galata Tower. Converted from a former bank, the hotel is agorgeous blend of grand 19th-century and contemporary architecture. Check out the rooftop bar— you will be greeted with excellent service and a stunning view across the Golden Horn.

It's an unbeatable location that we choose over and over again for its charm and convenience. The hotel is also perfectly positioned for an early dawn walk across the Galata bridge, passing a multitude of fishermen and seagulls. The traffic in Istanbul is relentless, and the best way to get around is by foot. We love to walk everywhere and immerse ourselves in the sights, sounds, and smells; we only ever use taxis to get to and from the airport, but otherwise, the light rail is also very easy to use.

Once across the bridge, you will arrive at the old spice markets, also known as the EgyptianBazaar, established over 450 years ago. The markets are a visual delight, filled with endless piles of colourful spices, dried fruits, and sweets delicately piled on to catch the eye of the curious.

Across the Galata bridge in the opposite direction, away from the Grand Bazaar, you'll find the Galata Tower and Istikal Cadessi. Essentially, it is a long shopping mall filled every evening with a throng of the young and restless... But explore the back streets of Istikal Cadessi and on into Cihangir, and you will find an emerging scene of bars, cafés and pop-ups featuring up-and-coming designers, ceramicists, glass blowers and jewellers. Walk deeper into Cihangir for restaurants that have stood the test of time and continue to deliver the most incredible Turkish food.

Our favourite among those restaurants is Cihangir Balıkçısı, a seafood destination with sublime food and atmosphere. We recommend the meze freshly prepared daily, but everything we have tried has been delicious.Nearby is also a cafe we love to frequent for brunch, Cuma. It has a gorgeous little courtyard that offers a welcome respite from the city's buzz, and the food and service are always excellent. We always drink Turkish coffee when in Turkey, medium sweet—perfection. Before leaving the area, make sure to check out the antique shops nearby.

Following brunch, you might like to treat yourself to a genuinely divine hamam experience at the Ağa Hamamı, just a short walk away from Cuma. The oldest hamam in Istanbul, Ağa Hamamı is known for providing an authentic Turkish Hamam experience that is truly unforgettable. The place has a fascinating history; originally, it was the private family hamam and the hunting lodge of Mehmed the Conqueror, the sultan who conquered Constantinople and ended the Eastern Roman Empire. Book ahead as it can be busy, particularly during peak seasons.

We often eat at Salon Galata; the décor is warm and inviting and has an old-world European charm about it. There is a dinner menu, but we particularly loved it for breakfast or an afternoon snack — or anytime to sit, drink coffee, people-watch and mellow in the heat as the day passes by.

If you have enough time or desire to get out of the city for a day, a ferry trip to one of the Princes Islands is a must. Only about an hour away, we personally love Burgaz Island —probably because of Yonna's family connection, having spent every summer there as a child. Take your swimmers and choose from several cafes for a long leisurely lunch prior to returning to Istanbul by ferry.